Dzongs, the Dochula pass, and the climb to the Tiger’s Nest
Bhutan is four hours from our office and a different world at the end of it. You cross at Phuentsholing, where the permits are issued, and the road climbs from a border town at 300 m to a capital at 2,320 m in a single morning.
Thimphu is the seat of government and has no traffic lights, by choice. Punakha holds the finest building in the country, a white dzong standing on the spit where two rivers meet. Paro has the airport, the national museum, and Taktsang: the Tiger’s Nest, 900 m of switchbacks above the valley floor, clinging to a cliff.
Between Thimphu and Punakha is the Dochula pass at 3,100 m, where 108 chortens stand on a saddle with the eastern Himalaya behind them on a clear morning. That view alone justifies the drive.
This is the plan as we would run it. Days can be swapped, dropped or added — say what you want changed and we will rebuild it before you pay anything.
Day 1
Met on arrival and driven east to the Bhutan border at Phuentsholing, around four hours through tea gardens and the Dooars forest edge. Evening in the border town, which is half Indian and half Bhutanese and interesting for exactly that reason. Permit paperwork is prepared tonight.
Day 2
Immigration opens at 9 am and the permits are issued in person against your original documents, which takes the morning. Then the road climbs hard: 300 m to 2,320 m in about six hours, through Gedu and Chukha with the Wangchhu river below. Thimphu by evening.
Immigration is closed on Sundays and Bhutanese public holidays. We plan the entry day around this; it is the most common cause of a lost day in Bhutan.
Day 3
The Buddha Dordenma, 52 m of gilded bronze looking down the valley. The Memorial Chorten, where the city comes to walk circles in the morning. The National Library, the traditional paper factory, the Folk Heritage Museum, the takin preserve for Bhutan’s strange national animal, and Tashichho Dzong, which houses the throne room and is open to visitors from late afternoon.
Day 4
East over the Dochula pass at 3,100 m, where 108 chortens stand on the saddle and, on a clear morning, the whole eastern Himalayan range stands behind them. Down into the warm Punakha valley. Chimi Lhakhang, reached on foot across the paddy fields, and then Punakha Dzong itself, on the spit between the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu rivers, which is the most beautiful building in the country. The long suspension bridge if there is light.
Day 5
Back over Dochula and west to Paro, around five hours, past the confluence at Chuzom where three chortens stand in three different architectural styles. In Paro: the National Museum in the old watchtower, Rinpung Dzong, and Kyichu Lhakhang, which is one of the oldest temples in Bhutan. Early night, because tomorrow is the climb.
Day 6
The reason people come. The trail climbs 900 m from the valley floor in a series of switchbacks through pine forest, reaching a cafeteria at the halfway point and then a viewpoint directly opposite the monastery before a final flight of steps down and up across the gorge. Four to five hours return at a normal pace. The afternoon is free, and you will want it.
Ponies can be hired for the ascent as far as the cafeteria only. They do not go to the monastery and they do not come down. Anyone who cannot manage the climb can walk to the first viewpoint, which is still a fine view.
Day 7
The long descent to the border, about six hours, exit formalities at Phuentsholing, and on to Bagdogra or NJP. This is a full day; book an evening flight or, better, an overnight at Siliguri.
Hotels are named on your written itinerary before you pay. The properties below are the ones we normally use in this band; if one is full on your dates we substitute a hotel of the same standard and tell you which, rather than leaving you to find out at check-in.
An Indian vehicle from Bagdogra to Phuentsholing, and a Bhutanese-registered vehicle with a licensed Bhutanese driver inside the country, which the law requires. A Bhutanese licensed guide accompanies you throughout, also required, and is included.
Up to 4 travellers normally ride in a Wagon R, Swift Dzire or similar; 5 to 7 in an Innova, Xylo or Scorpio; 8 and above in a Tempo Traveller or a second vehicle. On the North Sikkim and Silk Route legs the vehicle is always a Bolero, Sumo or Scorpio, because that is what those roads take.
Your written confirmation carries the exact advance, the balance date and the cancellation schedule for your trip. Those numbers, not this page, are the ones that apply. Full terms are on the booking conditions page.
General questions: permits, seasons, packing and how to get here
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Fill this in and we will come back with a proper day-by-day itinerary for your dates, with named hotels and one all-in price. No payment is taken at this stage and nothing is confirmed until you say so.
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Dates, how many of you, and anywhere you have your heart set on — that is enough for us to start. You will get a day-by-day plan with named hotels and one all-in price, in writing, before you pay anything.
